Unpleasant Surprises

All set for our trip to Las Vegas via London.  We left early Tuesday for London where we were going to spend one night before connecting onto our Wednesday morning flight to Las Vegas.  After landing in Gatwick’s north terminal, we headed over to the south terminal to the Virgin Atlantic counters for twilight check-in which allows us to check our baggage in 24 hours before our flight.

First surprise was that the monorail/train connecting both terminals was closed for repairs and will re-open only in August 2010.  With two children (seven and one) in tow, along with ten assorted pieces of luggage and hand-carry bags, we dragged ourselves on to the bus.  We head straight for the Virgin check-in counters and wait while Security asks us the standard questions about packing our bags ourselves while he scrutinizes our passports.  He starts asking us questions about our passports and whether they were electronic or not.  He seemed skeptical but allowed us to check-in anyway.  Right before we get our boarding passes, the same security person comes over and asks for our passports one more time.  This time he seemed more sure of himself.  After several more minutes of hemming and hawing, we were told to step aside to be told that three (mine and the kids) out of our five passports were not valid for travel to the united States as they weren’t biometric.  That was the second surprise of the day.  What’s a biometric passport? A passport issued post-2006 that includes an electronic chip embedded on the cover which has a persons’ personal information – fingerprints, photo etc.  On the other hand, my husband’s pre-2006 issued non-biometric passport was valid for travel and so was our nanny’s passport which had a valid U.S. visa.  When we insisted that we had used the same exact passports to travel to the U.S. in February of this year, we were told that we had somehow gotten through that one time and that we weren’t going to be allowed in this time around.  We were given two options so we could travel to the U.S. – get a U.S. visa (impossible as anyone who has ever been issued a US visa can tell you as it takes at least a week after calling a toll-free number for an appointment) or get a new biometric Swiss passport which takes 60 days and a personal appearance.

At this point, we had been up since 8 a.m. and had not had anything to eat since then and it was already 5 p.m.  So, once again, we dragged ourselves and the ten assorted pieces of luggage to the airport hotel where we checked-in and spent another three hours calling the Swiss embassies in Madrid and London, the American embassy in Madrid trying to sort the problem out.  We also had to make a fast decision regarding the tickets and change the flights for a later date or risk losing all of them.  Next, we changed our easyJet flights to Malaga to fly back home the next day.  We went to the restaurant for a quick dinner then started to email and call all the family and friends who were waiting for us to arrive in Las Vegas.  My sisters thought I was joking but realized that even I couldn’t make up a story like that.  After a sleepless night, we went to London for a few hours to have lunch and go to Selfridges but I just couldn’t get into the Christmas spirit and so we went back to Gatwick to get ready for the flight home.

That overnight stay in London was the shortest “holiday” I ever took with the most luggage and the most stressful travel experience I have ever had.  It’s been four days now and we’re still mired in administrative work – getting the paperwork for the US visas ready and trying to mail over most of the items we bought online that we were planning to take back with us, just to name a few.  It’s been a very tiring, frustrating and disappointing week.  Being (forcibly) kept away from family and friends makes this Christmas sad and depressing.  I just don’t have the energy for Christmas cheer this year.

P.S. For Swiss passport holders:  Remember that if you have a passport issued pre-2006, you will be allowed to enter the U.S. without a visa.  For all other Swiss passports issued post-2006, you will need to have either a valid U.S. visa or a biometric passport (not to be confused with an electronically readable passport).  If you intend to change your current non-biometric Swiss passport now, better to wait it out until March 2010 when all Swiss consulates will be able to issue biometric passports making the application process easier.

10 things I learned on my mini-break to Geneva

1. The trains are on almost always on time and precise as in 8:36 so if you get there at 8:36 sharp, the train may already be pulling out of the station.  The good thing is that on the rare event that the train is late, they tell you exactly how late it’ll be (see photo above where it says that our train to Geneva was going to be 8 minutes late).
2. Taxis are prohibitively expensive so if you can, take the tram or the bus or better yet, walk around (carefully so you don’t fall like I did) since the center of town is pretty small.
3. The Swiss are polite and helpful and most speak English especially in Geneva where so many expats and foreigners reside.  So if you get lost (like we did), ask and they will point out the way.
4. Eating out in Geneva is fairly expensive.  Restaurant main courses sometimes start at 49 CHF (about US $47) so order the prix-fixe menus which are usually better value or better yet, order a smaller portion (see #5).
5. Restaurant menus usually have a petite faim or petite assiette portion for starters and main courses and works well for those who are gourmets rather than gourmands or for ladies who (don’t) lunch.
6. Geneva is alive during the week so if you go there for pleasure, don’t go on a weekend as the city is very quiet with most restaurants and shops closed on Saturdays and Sundays.
7. The famous shopping street rue du Rhone is where the expensive brand names are – jewelry and watches for the most part but fashion boutiques as well.  Start in the middle near rue Pierre Fatio where Hogans and Tods are then work your way down to Globus (department store).
8. Almost all of the grande-dame Geneva hotels have been refurbished and now boast modern interiors – Jacques Garcia’s La Reserve, Tony Chi’s Intercontinental, Adam Tihany’s Mandarin Oriental Hotel du Rhone, Pierre-Yves Rochon’s Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues – which are breathing a new life to Geneva’s staid ambiance.
9. The Swiss eat ten and a half kilos of chocolates per person per year so there are obviously lots of chocolate shops around town.  Each Swiss has his/her preferred chocolate brand.  To sample a few and find your own favorite – read this.
10. Last but not least, it would be better not to mention the Swiss bank secrecy laws future as the outcome of all this controversy may change what Switzerland has been known for.

Family day in Vevey

On our last day in Geneva, we had breakfast at Le Sud of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel du Rhone - I had a perfectly baveuse (runny) omelette aux fines herbes (omelet with fresh herbs), fresh orange juice, double espresso and crusty mini-baguettes.

Afterwards, we took the train at noon to Vevey where we were meeting up with my brother in-law and family for lunch.  J met us at the train station then we went to to see their new home before heading back down to Montreux for some lunch.  Montreux is home to the famous summer jazz festival and also the Clinique La Prairie where the famous (or infamous) submit to thalassotherapy, skin treatments or a weight-loss program as well as aesthetic surgery.

We had lunch in the middle of town then went for a walk on the boardwalk which at this time of the year is the venue for the annual winter Christmas market. – Marche de Noel.  We walked through the first row of stalls selling trinkets and Christmas items then crossed over to the other side where the food stalls were set up.  Right by the lake was a large covered area filled with benches and large wooden tables for an impromptu picnic of food items purchased from the many stalls.  The one we were drooling over was the Tartiflette stand where two gigantic (really! look at the photo above) pans were filled with a lovely scent of potatoes, chopped bacon and hot gooey chunks of Reblochon.  If I hadn’t just had lunch, I would have had a plateful of this perfect winter dish.  Good thing that the parking entrance was nearby or I wouldn’t have been able to resist the other stands selling saucisson sec, pastries, tarts, cheese and lots of other goodies.

Next, we dropped by St. George’s School - where both my nephew and niece go before heading up the hill towards the Le Mirador Kempinski which has fantastic views of of the lake and the snow-capped Alps.  We walked around the terrace and enjoyed the scenery until it got too cold to stand around outdoors and headed back home.  J drove us back to the train station where we said a quick goodbye on the quai (platform) and hopped on the train back to Geneva.  A relaxing day spent with family to end our  weekend in Switzerland.

CHEZ JACKY

After our hectic Friday morning, we spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in the room before getting ready for dinner with dear friends Rosy and Jacques.  When A was at the hotel school in Lausanne two decades ago, Rosy and Jacques were the ones he spent almost every weekend with.  Over the years, A has kept in contact with them and on the rare occasion that we are in Switzerland, we make sure to meet up with them.

Dinner that evening was at at Chez Jacky just a few blocks away from our hotel.  This cozy restaurant opened by chef/proprietor Jacky Gruber, ex-Girardet/Dorchester/Schweizerhof, has been in the same right bank location since 1984.  We arrived on time at half past seven to find our hosts at the door and we settled into our window-side table.  As we were the first guest to arrive, we took our time exchanging news and recounting stories from 2007 when we last saw them in Marbella.  The menus were left untouched until we realized that the place had started to fill up and decided we should probably order before everyone else did.

The classic French cuisine menu at Chez Jacky is extensive with about 10 entrees (starters), half a dozen meat and another half dozen fish main courses, a cheese trolley and a dessert trolley.  There are also three set menus aside from the special winter menu – La Chasse (the hunt).  We opted for seafood starters – three seafood carpaccio and a scallop carpaccio for me.  For our main courses, three of us chose game from the winter menu – wild boar for Jacques & A, quail for me – and finally, the sole for Rosy.  Jacques also chose a Swiss Pinot Gris to go with our seafood starters.

We were served a delicious warm tomato soup as an amuse-bouche.  Our carpaccio arrived on clear glass plates – the seafood a combination of thin slices of salmon and tuna with scallops and some cooked shrimps in extra-virgin olive oil.  My carpaccio was Asian-inspired with the thinly sliced scallops seasoned in a dressing of sesame oil, lemongrass and cilantro.  The oriental ingredients complementing the sweetness of the raw fresh scallops.  We enjoyed our first plates with Jacques and A exchanging news while Rosy and I caught up on each others’ news as well.

By the time the main courses came, Jacques had already ordered a Swiss red (unfortunately, I don’t remember what it was) as Rosy and I were chatting away.  The boys’ filet mignon of wild boar was seared and came with crunchy red cabbage, pumpkin puree and a cinnamon-flavored jus.  My generous serving of two de-boned quail came with cooked mirabelle (plum) and prunelle (blackthorn fruit) in a maple-syrup reduction.   Only Rosy had the cuisine minceur (low-calorie option) of steamed sole with tagliolini and lobster butter.  All of the dishes came with a cocotte (a small cast-iron pot with a lid) of spaetzle, Switzerland’s ubiquitous side dish.  The food was presented well and were true renditions of classic cuisine.  The cheese trolley came next and as much as I wanted to sample a selection of Swiss cheese, I was just too full to do so.  The dessert trolley came next and the boys agreed to order something we could share – the rich, dark chocolate mousse with creme chantilly (whipped cream) and the pineapple with shredded basil.  I had a couple of large spoonfuls of the chocolate mousse just to taste.   The conversation flowed, as did the wine and before we knew, the restaurant was almost empty once again. Espressos ended our three-course gourmet meal and we said our goodbyes outside promising to meet again – where or when, we still don’t know but we hope it’ll be soon.  Merci Rosy et Jacques pour le fabuleux dîner Chez Jacky.  A bientôt!

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Chez Jacky

9-11 rue Necker

1201 Geneva

+41 22 732 86 80

Open Mondays to Fridays for lunch and dinner

Closed Saturdays and Sundays

ROBERTO

Lunch was set for a quarter past noon.  Right after checking in and unpacking (for the second time that weekend), we set off at noon for the restaurant which we thought was only 10 minutes away.  After a few wrong turns, we asked some banker-types and were told that in fact the restaurant was a kilometer away towars the far end of rue du Rhone, Geneva’s main shopping street.  As A started to brisk walk to our rendez-vous, I struggled to keep up in my high-heel stiletto boots.  Soon the gap between us started to get bigger and he was a block away from me.  Fifteen minutes later and we were still walking along the rue du Rhone, no longer enjoying the lovely windows decorated for Christmas and filled with lots of wonderfully expensive trinkets.  Almost at the end of the street, A suddenly turned left and rushed off so I tried to catch up but my heel got caught in a crack in the sidewalk and I tripped and fell on my knees, downward dog style, right in front of the windows of Tod’s and Hogan.  Luckily, I didn’t sprain my ankle although my left knee was a bit banged up.  I hobbled across the street just as A walked into the doors of Roberto.

The place was starting to fill up with a very well-heeled (no pun intended, or maybe just a little bit) melange of both power lunchers and ladies who lunch.  Red leather banquettes, brass rails, chandeliers and a see-and-be-seen crowd all greeted by the jacketed Italian proprietor at the door or by the woman in the leopard print shift dress and Louboutins.

After apologizing for our very un-Swiss lateness, we had a quick look at the menu and decided quickly despite the many choices available.  Prosciutto di Parma for C and a shared vitello tonnato for A & myself to start then pasta for all three of us – gnocchi for A & C and tortellini for me.  As we nibbled on some small chunks of Parmesan already on the table, bread and a carafe of Barolo were served.

As this was sort of a business lunch, pleasantries were exchanged then some business was discussed first so that lunch could be a more relaxing affair.  Our shared starter of vitello tonnato is something that one forgets the flavor of and then remembers as soon as the first bite is taken – the cold veal with the creamy tuna-based sauce was very good and a refreshing change from the usual.

By this time, Roberto was filled and buzzing.  Good that the service by the old-style white-jacketed waiters was efficient and we didn’t wait long for our pastas.  My tortellini with large slices of Porcini mushrooms came with a cream sauce while the gnocchi was served with the tomato sauce on the side.  More Parmesan, this time grated, was left on the table and the rest of the meal continued.  I forgot to mention that most restaurant menus included a petite assiette (small plate) or petite faim (small hunger) portion which is what I always ordered so I could survive the four days of three-course lunches and dinners.  Dessert was raspberries and fresh cream, surprisingly sweet, which A & I shared.  Espressos ended our lunch then we all rushed off again in different directions – C back to work and A & I walking briskly but carefully on the stylish rue du Rhone for another rendez-vous at the Hotel du Rhone.

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Roberto

10, rue Pierre-Fatio, Geneva

+41 (0)22 311 80 33

Open Mondays to Fridays  for lunch and dinner

HOTEL DU RHONE

We moved to our second hotel for the weekend – the newly-renovated Hotel du Rhone.  Reopened in 2008 and under the management of the Mandarin Oriental, this old Geneva favorite has transformed itself from a classic grande dame to a modern, bustling hotel with two new restaurants (Le Sud by Paul Bocuse and the modern Rasoi from London-based one-star Michelin chef, Rasoi Vineet Bhatia) and with a much-needed facelift for the local’s favorite, Le Bar.

Our penthouse suite had a lovely terrace overlooking the river and much of Geneva’s old town. The room was modern (control panels for lighting, air-conditioning and room temprature, sensor lighting in the walk-in closet, television in the bathroom, Nespresso machine, desk kitted out for all plugs) yet luxurious at the same time (heated floors in the all-marble bathroom, cozy seating area by the fireplace, bookmarks left slipped into your book, turn-down amenities were Molton Brown creams). Our welcome fruit platter and champagne were a very pleasant surprise and something to look forward to at the end of the day.  We didn’t have time to enjoy our amenities as we had another lunch date we needed to rush off to (which is what my next post is all about).

WOODS

We woke up on our first morning to 7C – warmer than was predicted and started the day with a fantastic breakfast at Woods, the Intercontinental hotels’ all-day dining restaurant.  It’s been awhile since we’ve been back in Asia and seeing the interiors of Woods and the aesthetically presented buffet breakfast brought us back to other breakfasts in grand Asian hotels.

The buffet was spread out and with an extensive selection of both cold and hot breakfast items.  There was a large table of breakfast breads – croissants, pains au chocolat, brioches with artisanal jams and marmalades.  Towards one side was a large marble open-shelved fridge with cold items – smoked salmon, hams, cheeses, yoghurts, Bircher muesli, fruit and fresh juices.  Finally, in the middle was a large granite-topped counter with stoves built-in to keep the food hot and casseroles were filled with scrambled eggs, sausages, crispy bacon, fried mushrooms and sauteed cherry tomatoes.  The juices were served in individual mini-carafes, the yoghurt with raspberry puree was home-made, the Bircher muesli delicious, the bread selection extensive and the espressos short.  It was without a doubt, the best breakfast we both had this year.  Tabletops were modern and service was efficient and courteous.  Other tables were filled with international businessmen having breakfast meetings and delegates from the nearby United Nations.  We had a long leisurely breakfast, packed our bags then checked out and moved to the Hotel du Rhone which is closer to the old town for our last two nights in Geneva.

CHATEAU d’OUCHY

On our first evening, we took the train to Lausanne where we met up with friends C & D who drove all the way from Zurich so we could all have dinner together.  They met us at the station and then we drove to the École hôtelière de Lausanne where we had planned to have dinner at their fine dining restaurant, Le Berceau des Sens, run by the students.  They were fully booked that evening but we decided to stay anyway for an aperitif at the students’ bar, walk around a bit and have a look at the hotel school where C & A studied together 20 years ago. 


We drove down to Lausanne afterwards and rushed to our dinner reservation at the Château d’Ouchy. Originally a bishops’ residence with the tower constructed in 1170, the chateau was rebuilt completely from ruins in 1885 with only the tower remaining from the original structure and converted to a hotel in 1893.  It was bought by the Swiss French Lottery in 2001, renovated completely and reopened as a modern boutique hotel under the management of the Lausanne Palace in 2007.

We arrived to a semi-full bar with a DJ spinning tunes on top of  a grand piano and walked through to the restaurant which overlooks the lake.  The interiors were modern with lots of white furniture, including an all-white Christmas tree but touches of the old remained with the stone-wall remains of the old tower enclosed in a winter garden-like structure that works well to combine the historical significance of the Chateau.

A banquette corner table was reserved for us and as we sat to peruse the extensive menus, we were served squares of olive-studded focaccia and olive oil.  The menu is classic French cuisine using ingredients sourced from the nearby regions of Switzerland.  There were several hot and cold starters, a few soups and pastas followed by the main courses: fish from Lac Léman (Lake Geneva) or meat dishes with game featuring heavily in their winter menu.  It took us some time to go through the choices and decide what to have.  At the bottom of the menu, the source of the meat selections are listed with veal from Switzerland, lamb from New Zealand and game (wild boar and deer) from Austria.  We decided on our starters and main courses and chose a bottle of Gigondas 2007 from Pierre Amadieu, a traditional blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre.

While waiting for our starters, we caught up on what we had all been up to since we met last in Marbella.  D & C told us about where they had been in 2009 while we recounted our own travels.  The starters were served soon after – the Maine lobster tataki with spinach and mango chutney for D, the pan-fried duck liver with figs and Parmesan for C and a shared pasta starter of Straccetti with jambon de Borne in cream for A and myself.  C told us that he was enjoying his starter immensely as foie gras was scarce in the German part of Switzerland where they live because of the animal activists who were against the force-feeding of the ducks.  A and I enjoyed our delicious Straccetti flat pasta squares with ruffly-sides tossed in cream and topped with slices of ham and thinly-shaved black truffles.

We continued with the wine and the conversation while waiting for the main courses – fillets of lake-caught Perch meuniere for A & D, venison fillet with black currants, potato fingers and glazed quince for C and Simmental veal (from western Switzerland) with mushrooms and figs for me.  I had to try the perch fillets as they were the typical fish from Geneva lake.  They were soft flaky white fish pan-fried in butter and garnished with lemon juice and parsley and came with a small green salad and crispy shoestring potatoes.  My veal was tender and could be sliced with just a fork.  It was seared on the outside and left slightly pink inside.  The flavorful veal perfectly complemented by the smashed sweet figs and earthy mushrooms.  The restaurant does classic French cuisine and does it well.  It’s such a treat to be served food that isn’t fancy or modern but just cooked perfectly using the best ingredients possible.  Of course, a nice bottle of wine also helps.  In the end though, it’s the company of good friends that make a meal memorable.  Thanks to C & D for another enjoyable evening.

BRASSERIE LIPP

Travelling from Malaga to go on a mini-break means having to connect at one of the other major airports which is why when we do go away, we always end up having to take a very early morning flight.  The weekend started with getting up at 4:00 a.m. to make our flight to Madrid then from there head to Geneva where we arrived before noon.  Straight to the Intercontinental Geneva to check-in, drop of our suitcasas, freshen up and rush out to meet my brother in-law for lunch at Brasserie Lipp.  We took a taxi and crossed the river and arrived in town a few minutes later than expected (not very Swiss of us).

The restaurant is located on an upper level of a shopping mall at one end of the rue de la Confederation.  At the entrance is a large shellfish display and a revolving door to the main part of the restaurant.  From there, several rooms branch out to different sitting areas – red leather banquettes and tiny tables and larger tables with wooden cafe chairs.  J was already there when we arrived but it took us a while to find him.  We settled into our seats after saying hello and catching up quickly on each others’ news then had a quick look at the extensive menu.  We all decided to have tartare – steak for A and I, salmon for J.

Bread was served while we waited for our main courses.  The place started to fill up and by the time the tartares were served, the restaurant was packed and buzzing with waiters rushing around and diners’ loud conversation.  The food arived quickly – the salmon tartare with brown bread and the steak tartares arrived served on a rectangular plate with the ingredients separated with the hand-chopped steak in the center, slices of pickle on one side, a few caper berries on top, a little container of spicy sauce and a dollop of chopped parsley and capers but no egg.  It was a novel presentation for a classic dish to make the diner prepare the tartare to his own taste.  The beef was very good but it wasn’t easy to recreate a mouthful of perfectly-seasoned tartare at every bite.  Crispy fries were placed on a plate in the center for us to share along with a well-seasoned green salad.

The dessert selection was extensive as well and at first, we weren’t sure if we were having any then changed our mind and ordered two to share – a classic creme brulee for J and ile flottante for me and A.  The ile flottante was delicious – a light egg-white meringue floating in a bowlful of creme anglaise and topped with crispy almond brittle and espressos to finish off and said our goodbyes quickly before J went back to work.

Brasserie Lipp, although not related in any way to its’ Parisian namesake, is a typical bustling brasserie in the French mold – decent food, quick service, reasonable prices, buzzing atmosphere and the kind of restaurant where you can always find something you like from the large menu.
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Brasserie Lipp
Confédération Centre
Rue de la Confédération 8
1204 Genève
Tél : +41 (022) 318 80 30

Open daily, Mondays to Saturdays 7h to 2 a.m. and  Sundays 9 a.m. to 2 a.m.
(another branch in Zurich)

Mini-break: Geneva

We leave the day after tomorrow for a mini-break to Geneva.  It’s been ages since I’ve been to this Swiss city (the last time was in 2001) and I’m looking forward to exploring the old town and discovering more on this trip.  We’ve made time to meet up with friends for lunch and dinner and hope to squeeze in some sightseeing in-between.  I’ve brought out my winter clothes in preparation for this weekend and will start to pack today.  After enduring a post-less blog last month, I’m all ready to write about my gourmet travels and it’s going to be a busy December as a week after we get back, we go to Las Vegas for the holidays.  Here’s to the start of a very busy end to 2009.